Most Expensive Washing Machine Parts to Replace: Costs, Symptoms, Repair or Replace?

You clicked this because you want a straight answer before you burn money on a repair call-out. Here it is: on most modern front-loaders, the priciest fix is the drum/tub assembly when the bearings or spider arm fail-often costing more than a mid-range replacement washer. But that’s not the only wallet-buster. Control boards, direct‑drive motors, and (on top-loaders) gearcases can land in the same price bracket. I’ll show you how to tell what’s gone, what it tends to cost in the UK right now, and the simple rules to decide repair vs replace.

What jobs are you trying to get done here?

• Know the single most expensive part to replace-and the close runners‑up.
• Spot the tell‑tale symptoms so you don’t pay for guesswork.
• Understand UK parts and labour prices in 2025 to budget properly.
• Decide: repair or replace, based on age, brand, and fault.
• Avoid gotchas: sealed tubs, hidden labour, and misdiagnoses.

TL;DR: Key takeaways

• Most expensive: the drum/tub assembly on front‑loaders when bearings or the spider arm fail; typical total £300-£600 in the UK, sometimes more for premium brands or integrated units.
• Close runners‑up: main control board (£200-£400 fitted), direct‑drive motor/stator (£200-£350), top‑loader gearcase/transmission (£250-£450).
• Cheaper fixes: pumps, door seals, heating elements, and belts usually land under £150-£220 fitted.
• Quick rule: if the repair is over 50% of a like‑for‑like replacement and the machine is 7-10 years old or more, replacing often wins-unless you own a high‑end, well‑built model worth saving.
• Labour matters: bearing/tub jobs are labour‑heavy (2-4 hours+), which is why washing machine repair costs balloon even if the parts seem reasonable.

Small personal note: I live in Bristol with my son, and I’ve wrestled more than one screaming bearing out of a washer in a cramped kitchen. When a machine sounds like a jet on spin, it’s rarely a cheap afternoon fix.

What’s the most expensive part to replace-and why it’s so costly

On most modern front‑load washing machines, the priciest repair is replacing the outer tub and inner drum assembly when the drum bearings or the spider (the cast arm that holds the drum shaft) fail. Here’s why it stings:

• Labour is high: The machine has to be stripped down-front panel off, door boot off, counterweights out, motor off, shocks and springs disconnected, wiring moved-then reassembled and pressure‑tested. That’s easily 2-4 hours for an experienced engineer, sometimes more on integrated models.
• Sealed tubs: Many brands mould or weld the tub halves. If the bearings are worn, you can’t press in new ones; you have to buy the entire tub/drum assembly. That part alone can be £150-£350+ depending on brand and size.
• Collateral damage: Failed bearings often chew the shaft and seal. If the spider arm is corroded (common on older front‑loaders), you need a new drum, too-upping part costs and labour.

Typical UK 2025 totals for a tub/drum job:

• Budget/mid brand (e.g., Beko, Indesit, Hotpoint): £300-£450
• Mid/high brand (e.g., Bosch/Siemens, Samsung, LG, AEG): £350-£600
• Premium (e.g., Miele): £450-£800+ (parts are pricier, build is heavier, labour is longer-but the machines are worth keeping if otherwise sound)

Are there cases where the control board or motor beats that price? Yes. Some control boards on smart models (Wi‑Fi, inverter) climb over £250 for the part; add labour and it’s £300-£400 fitted. Direct‑drive stator/rotor assemblies on LG/Samsung can also land in that £200-£350 fitted range. Top‑loader owners face a different big‑ticket item: the gearcase/transmission, which can be £250-£450 fitted depending on brand and age.

What about pumps, belts, heaters, and door seals? These are usually much cheaper. A drain pump on a common UK machine can be under £120-£180 fitted. Door boots vary by brand but rarely approach control‑board money unless the machine is a niche model.

How to spot an expensive fault (and avoid paying for the wrong fix)

You don’t need to strip the machine to get useful clues. These simple checks can flag the big money faults before you book an engineer.

1) Is it likely the drum bearings/spider?

• Rumbling on spin: A deep, growly roar that gets louder as the drum speeds up is classic bearing wear. Think “tube train entering a tunnel.”
• Clunks and wobble: With the machine off, open the door, grab the stainless drum edge, and lift. If it moves up/down noticeably, the rear bearing or spider is shot.
• Brown/black stains: Greasy flecks on clothes or around the door seal can be bearing seal grease escaping.
• Leaking from rear/centre: Water marks at the back of the tub can mean the bearing seal has failed.

If your machine has any two of the above, prepare for a bearing/tub job. On sealed tubs, expect a full drum/tub assembly replacement.

2) Could it be the control board?

• Dead but power at socket: Lights off, no response, fuses OK? Main board or user interface board may be gone.
• Random resets or error codes: Inconsistent behaviour across cycles-especially after power surges-points at PCB issues.
• Burnt electronics smell: A tell‑tale aroma near the control panel or rear.

Some boards can be repaired at component level by specialists for less than a new OEM board. Ask the engineer if board repair is an option for your model; it can shave £50-£150 off the bill.

3) Direct‑drive motor/stator symptoms (LG/Samsung style)

• Vibration without torque: The drum spins unevenly or fails to get going, with humming.
• Error codes referencing motor or hall sensor: These often push toward replacing the stator or sensor ring.

4) Top‑loader gearcase/transmission

• Agitator won’t move but motor hums.
• Grinding during wash or spin.
• Oil under the machine: Many gearcases are oil‑filled; a leak is bad news.

5) Cheaper fault cues

• No drain → likely pump or blockage.
• Water left in door boot → often a blocked filter or pump impeller snagged by coins/hair pins.
• Trips electrics mid‑cycle → a heater earth fault is a cheap-ish part to replace.

Pro tip: Before calling anyone, clean the filter, check the drain hose and the coin trap, and run a spin‑only cycle. You might save a call‑out.

Realistic UK costs in 2025: parts, labour, and what drives the total

Labour is the swing factor. Across the UK, standard appliance labour in 2025 commonly sits around £50-£90 per hour, with call‑out/diagnosis fees of £60-£100. London and the South East trend higher. Many firms use fixed pricing for common jobs, but long strip‑downs still carry time risk.

Here’s a grounded view of what people actually pay for common parts when fitted by a reputable local engineer. Parts vary by brand and drum size; labour varies by access, integrated installs, and how stuck the old parts are.

Where do these numbers come from? They reflect typical list prices from mainstream UK parts suppliers and posted labour rates from national and regional repair firms as of 2025, plus what engineers actually invoice on the ground. Consumer groups like Which? have long reported that labour time is the budget killer on drum jobs, not the raw bearing price.

Brand effects you should know:

• Beko/Indesit/Hotpoint: Parts are widely available and relatively cheap; sealed tubs are common.
• Bosch/Siemens/Neff: Good support; parts mid‑priced; some models have serviceable tubs, many don’t.
• LG/Samsung: Direct‑drive motors are efficient; stators and sensors can add up, but access is decent.
• AEG/Electrolux/Zanussi: Prices mid‑to‑high; check tub type.
• Miele: Parts are premium. If the machine is under 12-15 years and well‑kept, repairing is often worth it due to build quality.

Integrated/behind‑door kitchens add time just to remove and refit cabinetry and panels. Expect an extra 30-60 minutes of labour in tight Bristol terraces and city flats where access is… creative.

Repair or replace? Use these rules, checklists, and scenarios

Use these quick heuristics and avoid “good money after bad.”

Simple decision rules

• 50% rule: If the quote exceeds 50% of a like‑for‑like replacement, lean toward replacement.
• Age rule: 0-4 years → repair. 5-7 years → depends on brand/fault. 8-10+ years → replace unless it’s a premium brand in good nick.
• Fault type: Drum/tub, gearcase, or control board → bigger spend. Pump, heater, door seal → usually repair.
• Usage profile: Heavy family use (daily loads) shortens life; light use makes repair more attractive.
• Water damage risk: Bad bearings can wreck the seal and leak. Don’t sit on it for months.

Checklist: Before you book a repair

• Model and serial: Photograph the rating plate (usually inside the door or at the rear).
• Symptoms: Note noises, leaks, error codes, and when they occur (wash vs spin).
• Basic checks: Clean the filter, inspect the drain hose, and test a spin‑only cycle.
• Tub type: Ask the engineer on the phone if your model has a sealed tub. That one answer changes everything.
• Quote style: Ask for a fixed price including parts, labour, and VAT-plus any install/removal time for integrated units.
• Parts plan: If it’s a PCB, ask if board repair/refurb is possible. If it’s bearings, ask if a bearing kit exists or if the whole tub is needed.

When repair makes sense

• Newer machine (under 5 years) with a clear fault and readily available parts.
• High‑end model with good build (e.g., Miele, some Bosch/Siemens) where the rest of the machine is solid.
• Known, single fault (e.g., pump, heater) with a predictable fixed price.

When replacement makes sense

• Sealed tub bearing failure on a mid‑range, 7-10‑year‑old washer.
• Multiple issues (e.g., bearings plus a worn door boot and tired shocks).
• PCB failure on an older machine with signs of other wear (rust, weak bearings).

Example scenarios

• Five‑year‑old Bosch, loud rumble on spin, drum play present: If tub is sealed, expect a £350-£500 quote. If that’s near half the cost of a new Bosch, you may still repair if you like the machine and space is tight. If it’s closer to £550-£600, many people replace.
• Eight‑year‑old Beko with no drain: Pump replacement £120-£180. Repair it. That’s cheap life extension.
• Ten‑year‑old LG direct‑drive with motor error: Stator/sensor fix £200-£300 fitted. If otherwise mint and you like how it washes, repair is reasonable.
• Premium Miele, 12 years old, bearing noise but no leaks yet: Costly, yes-but these are built to last. A bearing/tub repair often beats buying a new mid‑range machine.

Mini‑FAQ and next steps

Got more questions? These are the ones I hear most often.

What’s the single most expensive part to replace?

On front‑loaders, the complete tub/drum assembly when bearings or the spider fail. Parts plus labour easily outprice many mid‑range replacements, which is why so many people replace at this point.

Are bearings ever cheap to fix?

Only if your model accepts a bearing kit and your engineer can press them in. The parts are cheap; the labour isn’t. Sealed tubs remove that option.

Can a control board be repaired instead of replaced?

Often, yes. Component‑level repair by a specialist can be £50-£150 cheaper than a new OEM board, depending on the fault. Ask for a diagnostic first.

Do new washers save enough energy to justify replacing?

Modern A‑rated 8-10 kg machines use less water and power per kilo than older models, which trims bills a bit. If your current washer is over a decade old, the savings and better spin efficiency (drier laundry) add up-but they rarely pay back a £400-£600 purchase quickly on energy alone. The decision usually hinges on reliability and repair cost, not just efficiency.

Is it OK to use second‑hand parts?

For pumps and cosmetic bits, sometimes. For bearings, spiders, and PCBs, it’s a gamble. Many repair firms won’t warranty used electronics. A reputable refurb supplier is key.

How long should a washing machine last?

With normal family use, many mainstream washers see 7-10 years. Premium machines can go 12-15+ with care. Regularly cleaning the filter, avoiding chronic overloading, and fixing small leaks early makes a real difference.

What’s the risk of ignoring a noisy bearing?

It usually gets louder, damages the shaft and seal, and can start leaking into the motor area. That can turn a borderline repair into a definite replacement.

I rent. Should I touch it?

No-report it to your landlord or agent. Document symptoms, errors, and any leaks with photos.

Next steps if you’re on the fence right now:

1. Do the quick checks (filter, hose, spin test) and listen for bearing rumble.
2. Look up your model to confirm tub type (sealed vs serviceable).
3. Get two quotes: one fixed‑price repair (parts+labour+VAT), one for supply and install of a like‑for‑like replacement-including removal of the old machine.
4. Apply the 50% and age rules. If it’s a sealed tub bearing on a mid‑range 8‑year‑old unit, replacement often wins. If it’s a pump or heater, repair and keep washing.
5. If you do replace: measure your space, check door swing for integrated kitchens, and keep the transit bolts from the new machine for future moves.

Final tip from a dad who’s had a washer die mid‑school‑week: if the quote is close and laundry is piling up, weigh the hidden costs-launderette runs, time off work, damp clothes everywhere. Sometimes a prompt, predictable replacement beats chasing a marginal repair.